Returning to Saucer after three months, I found the chef much changed. Fenwick Plumtree has abandoned deconstruction, the programme note informs us, in favour of “reconstruction,” in which the kibble is put back together by hand, in the shape of a smaller bowl. I found it moving for the first nine courses and merely loud for the tenth.
The surprise of the season is the pumpkin broth, served at the exact temperature of a thought. At $12 for a thimble it is not cheap, but then neither is regret. The maître d’, Odalys, ignored me again, and it was a relief. Three paws, up from two and a half, and a note: the table is now properly high. Someone has been reading us.
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