Saucer: A Bowl, Reimagined, and Not for the Better

I arrived at Saucer, the new establishment on Radiator Row, at a quarter past noon and was seated at a table I can only describe as aggressively low. The tasting menu is eleven bowls of what the chef, Fenwick Plumtree, calls “deconstructed kibble.” This is kibble, placed in separate piles. One pile per flavour note. I counted forty one pieces in the Chicken Memory course and I did not feel remembered.

That said, the water is served in a ceramic vessel of genuine integrity, and the maître d’, a tortoiseshell named Odalys, has a way of ignoring you that feels almost architectural. Two and a half paws out of four. The bill was $86, and I was not asked how everything was, which is how I knew it was serious.